“Cabello De Ángel”. How To Make It And A Recipe To Use It.

Last year Pep had the grand idea of planting two squash plants of the climbing variety next to the chicken run. The idea was that these plants would wind their way up the chicken’s house and cover the roof, offering our hens some much needed shade in the summer months.

His theory worked. What we hadn’t counted on was the amount of squash these plants would produce. The previous year we had planted a couple of said plants but the harvest hadn’t been too great. Although the crop was quite plentiful for just two plants, the fruit had remained quite small. Quite the opposite to last year’s “cosecha”.

Squash the size of watermelons were all over the shop. Up the sides of the chicken run, covering the roof, hanging off our fence, invading the fruit tree plot,… They were even in next door’s garden. I’d never seen anything like it! My worry was where would we store them all and more importantly, how would I use them all.

This variety of squash is the “calabaza cidra” or “calabaza cabello de ángel”. In Spain the main use for this squash is “cabello de ángel” (angel hair), a sweet, stringy, candied filling for cakes and pastries that I’ve loved since we moved to Spain in 1986. All those years ago I would never have guessed it came from a vegetable. How could something so sweet and sticky be related to a cucumber?!?!

Roll on a few (too many) years and my ever-increasing interest in vegetables has led me to learn the process of making the delicious, sugary treat. Which is a good thing, taking into account the amount of “cidra” squash we have in our store room!

It’s best to store the squash for at least 6 months, but ideally for a year after harvesting, for it to reach it’s optimum state. During this time it should be kept in a dark, ventilated, cool(ish) room for it to remain “healthy”. To know when it’s ready to consume you need to tap it. If it sounds hollow, it’s ready.

I used the last jar of my previous batch of “cabello de ángel” not too long ago, to make a vegan ice cream would you believe (yes you would, knowing how much we love ice cream in this household!!). So a few days ago I got out my most lethal kitchen knife and set about making a few more jars of this delicacy.

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There are various different methods to prepare “cabello de ángel”. Some suggest knocking all around the skin of the squash so the pulp separates from the skin, then cooking the pulp. The skin is very, very hard, almost plasticky, I should imagine the pulp should separate quite easily. I’ve never tried though. Others suggest to bake it whole in the oven before cutting it open to remove the cooked insides, then candying it with the sugar.

My way is relatively simple but does require a bit of elbow grease. I firstly chop the squash into chunks. This is when the elbow grease comes in handy. Place the chunks in a very large saucepan, cover with water and bring to the boil. Put a lid on the pan, turn the heat down to low and simmer until the squash is tender. It takes between 45 minutes to an hour.

Strain and allow to cool enough so you can handle it. Now comes the most time consuming part. The pulp is full of black seeds which need removing. The skin is also discarded. So perched at my dining room table I begin removing seeds and skin and placing the pulp in a big bowl.

Once all the pulp is “clean”, place it in a colander over a bowl and squeeze out as much water as possible. Then allow it to drain for a couple of hours more so it can release any excess water that’s still in the pulp. It’s best to get as much liquid out as you can, the candying process will be quicker that way.

Then I weigh the pulp. The amount of sugar needed will be anywhere from 60% to 100% of the weight of the pulp, after the liquid has been removed. This is based on personal preference and changes depending on who you speak to. I use 60% as I don’t like things too sweet (it’s still plenty sweet enough mind). I keep the jars in the fridge where they keep for a very long time. If using 100% sugar you’ll be able to store the sealed jars in a cupboard.

Right. Put the pulp in a saucepan along with the amount of sugar you’re using, half a lemon (seeds removed) and a stick of cinnamon if you fancy. I didn’t use cinnamon this time ’cause I forgot. Cook over a low heat with the lid on for approximately 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove the lid and continue to cook until all the liquid has evaporated, around 5 minutes, depending on the liquid left in the pulp.

As soon as I turn off the heat I put the “cabello de ángel” into sterilised jars, screw the lids on very tightly and turn the jars upside down until completely cool. I don’t need to seal them in a bain marie that way. I use the same method when I make jam. Just make sure you use oven gloves while handling the jars, they’re extremely hot. Store in a cupboard or in the fridge depending on how much sugar you used.

There are quite a lot of Spanish recipes that use “cabello de ángel”. The famous pastry from Mallorca, the “Ensaimada Mallorquina”, is filled with it. The “Roscón de Reyes”, the three kings holiday cake, is also occasionally sandwiched together with the sweet treat. All sorts of different pastries and cakes have it as either a topping or a filling. Here is a link to a page (in Spanish) showing dozens of different recipes.

My problem is the gluten though. I really have to avoid it as much as poss if I want to feel well. I shall soon be attempting a gluten free “brazo de gitano” (the Spanish version of a Swiss roll) smothered with “cabello de ángel”. Seeing as it will soon be Christmas though, I thought now as good a time as any to make a typical Spanish treat for this time of year.

“Cordiales” are a divine almond and “cabello de ángel” small biscuity cake thing, more popular in Murcia than this area. Extremely easy to make, sort of healthy and incredibly moreish. For me, this is what Christmas should taste of. Cinnamon and lemon rind compliment the almonds really well, and the “cabello de ángel” adds a touch of sweetness and chewiness to the finished biscuit. Wonderful.

There are a few different ways to make them (aren’t there always). Some make the almond dough first then place a teaspoon of “cabello de ángel” inside each ball before baking them. Others mix everything together and then form the biscuits. Some people use unpeeled raw almonds, others remove the skins.

I like to go for the easiest version and personally, in this case at least, the tastiest. Leaving the skins on the almonds gives a more rustic, wholesome texture and flavour. Plus it’s much quicker. You can also buy the “cabello de ángel” ready made, it usually comes in a tin. It’s not as tasty though.

Start by grinding the unpeeled almonds in a food processor. Tip them into a big bowl along with the eggs, the sugar, the “cabello de ángel”, the lemon rind and the cinnamon. Stir it all together, using your hands if you want, making sure everything is incorporated.

Form small balls with the help of a tablespoon and place them on a large baking tray which has been lined with baking paper. In Murcia they place the dough balls on small pieces of rice paper. They’re then given a sort of cone like shape, although you can leave them round if you want.

In the oven they go, for about 14-15 minutes until they’re slightly browned. Remove and allow to cool completely. They say to dust with icing sugar but I can’t see the point, they’re perfect without it. The outside is quite firm while the inside remains slightly chewy. Glorious. I keep them covered with kitchen paper. They do get softer as the days go by but they’re just as delicious. I don’t store them in an airtight container as I think they’d go mouldy very quickly, unless you keep them in the fridge.

By the way, I used 500 grams of almonds, 3 eggs, 200 grams of sugar and 230 grams of “cabello de ángel”. Plus the cinnamon and lemon rind. It made 44 “Cordiales”. Quite an ample amount I’d say, although they won’t last long. They’d make great gifts too. I think most people would be rather pleased to receive a wee box.

Ok, I’m off. Let me know if you make these biscuits. Or the “cabello de ángel”. If you already make either of them and do it differently to me, let me know. I’d love to hear about the method you use. As always, any suggestions or questions, get in touch.

I’ll be back on Valley FM tomorrow between 12 and 2pm if you fancy listening to my dulcet tones 😁😁. Take care and keep warm you lot. It’ll soon be summer, don’t worry!! Hasta pronto. Lots of love, Georgie and Pep xxx

“Cordiales”, my way. (Gluten free, grain free and dairy free)

Sweet, moreish almond and "cabello de ángel" biscuits, flavoured with lemon and cinnamon

5 from 4 votes

Print Recipe Pin Recipe

Course Baked product

Cuisine Gluten free, Mediterranean

Ingredients

  

• 500 grams almonds, with or without skin (or use 500 grams ground almonds)
• 3 medium eggs, preferably free range
• 200 grams sugar I use eco raw cane sugar
• 200-230 grams "cabello de ángel"
• rind of one lemon
• 1 tsp cinnamon
• small pinch of salt

Instructions

 

• Preheat oven to 180º centigrade
• Line a large baking tray with baking paper
• Grind almonds in a food processor.
• Add almonds to a large bowl along with all the other ingredients
• Mix throughly till completely combined
• With the help of a tablespoon, form small balls and place on the baking tray, giving them a cone-like shape if you fancy
• Place in the oven and bake for 14-15 minutes until slightly browned
• Allow to cool completely and enjoy

Keyword “cabello de ángel”, almonds, Christmas,, cinnamon