Oropesa, “Vías Verdes” And “Carajillo Quemado”

On Monday evening we arrived back home after a few days break in Oropesa Del Mar, a seaside town in Castellón and a second home to me. I have an apartment there close to the beach (it’s up for sale by the way!) that I bought in 2003 and since then have spent many a relaxing weekend (or week) enjoying it’s good vibes.

The reason I bought the apartment seems a bit extravagant to me now but hey, I was young and at the time it was what I wanted. I don’t regret it one bit though. From 1998 till approximately 2009 the FIB, which stands for Festival Internacional de Benicàssim (but more appropriately now Festival de Ingleses Borrachos, I’ll let you work that one out) was an obligatory summer escapade for me. I camped once, definitely not my scene, so for a couple of years I stayed at hotels in Oropesa, the neighbouring town to Benicàssim.

Instantly I felt at home there, more so than in Benicàssim. After I sold a little village house in Orbeta, I decided to invest the money in what would be for the following 17 years, a haven to escape to when I needed to chill out and also a place to stay away from all the crowds of the festival, but only a few minutes drive away. The festival has gone waaaaay downhill in my opinion (I could just be getting old) but the town still holds it’s attraction to me. The only reason I’m selling is I could do with a few extra euros in my bank account and we don’t get to the apartment as often as we should to make the expenses worthwhile. When it eventually sells I know I will still occasionally visit, I’ll always have a soft spot for the area.

Oropesa is a typical old fashioned Spanish seaside town, there are no airs and graces (hence why I fit in well) and it takes me back to when we first moved to the Costa Blanca in 1986. Hardly any of the seafront apartments have been modernised since they were built back in the 70’s (although there are more recent ones too) but for me, this adds to it’s charm. Cheap(ish) restaurants align the “paseo marítimo” (promenade) serving the usual “frituras” (deep fried, battered seafood and the likes), tapas and paellas (it’s best to stay away from the latter if you’re used to eating the rice dishes in the Alicante and Valencia provinces!).

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There are two main beaches, Concha and Morro De Gos, the town which is a 10 minute walk away and the “casco antiguo”, the historic quarter. Then there is Marina D’Or. This is a city in itself, the Las Vegas of the Mediterranean. At least, that’s what they’d hoped for. Built on corruption and illegalities it now has debts that could stop hunger in the world a few times over. I’ve seen it at it’s “best” (definitely not my scene), a sort of tacky Disney World with a huge spa included. Families would come from all over Spain to enjoy the apartment that had cost them a small fortune. We walked there this weekend as we often do, for no particular reason except to have a long wander by the sea. We couldn’t believe what we saw when we arrived there. Restaurants abandoned, no life in the apartments, the pretty lights hanging above us down the main streets all turned off. Practically a ghost “town”. We managed to spot 3 people sitting at one of the main cocktail bars and that was it. But enough of these tales of woe, back to happy times!!

One of my favourite pastimes when we visit is cycling along the “Vía Verde” between Oropesa and Benicàssim. “Vías Verdes” are unused railway lines that have been converted into routes for cyclists and walkers. Because of this they are mostly flat (I loathe hills when I’m cycling, must be ’cause I’m originally from the Fens) and are suitable for all ages. There are around 120 all over Spain and are a marvellous way to take in the scenery of the area without any motorised vehicles whizzing by. This is the link to the official page, it’s in both Spanish and English. http://www.viasverdes.com/principal.asp

This one in particular is around 6 kms long and runs along the rocky coastline between the two towns. It’s practically unspoilt and there are several small “calas” (coves) where people come to spend the day to avoid the masses on the main beaches. There is even a “chiringuito” (beach bar) about half way along where you can stop to cool off and grab a drink and a bite to eat. Like most “chiringuitos”, it only opens in the warmer months. The route is rather beautiful, the smell of the pines in the summer heat is inebriating and I feel like a kid again as I cycle along with the wind in my hair and without a care in the world (oops, got slightly hippy dippy there, will try and keep it under control!!)

Another advantage of Oropesa and the surrounding areas, this one not quite as healthy as the previous, is the “carajillo quemado”. A “carajillo” is a coffee with a generous glug of alcohol added to it, mainly rum, whisky or brandy. If it’s “quemado” (burnt) they add sugar to the alcohol, set fire to it and gradually burn off the alcohol content. Then the coffee is added on top. I find the normal “carajillo”, the one they mainly serve in this area (Alicante province) virtually undrinkable. You can ask for it to be “quemado” (it’s called a “cremaet” in Valenciano) but it’s never quite the same and only a few places serve it, although it does seem to be gradually coming in to fashion again. Bartenders can offer you a disgusted look if you ask for one, they don’t seem to have the patience nor the will to throw one together, often tutting if they have to oblige or just saying they don’t serve this type of coffee.

In the Castellón province it’s the norm. If you ask for a “carajillo” you rarely have to specify that you want it “quemado”, occasionally they ask just to make sure but mostly just smile, say ok and proceed to make it for you, no tutting or disgusted looks to accompany it either. The alcohol gets set alight with far too much sugar for a couple of minutes, either in the glass or in a separate metal jug, along with a small piece of cinnamon bark, a slithering of lemon zest and a couple of coffee beans. It then goes under the coffee machine and the glass gets filled to the top with black coffee, in some cases there’s not much room for a great deal. You then have the honour of stirring it all together and sipping this delicious combination of sweet flambeed rum and coffee.

The summertime is not the best season to enjoy this drink, it is rather warming. Mind you, it doesn’t stop us from having a couple when we come for a few days break. I have found a much more cooling way to savour this beverage though, a vegan “carajillo quemado” ice cream. In a future post I shall write about how I like to make the drink and also the recipe for the creamy dessert. It’s for adults only mind you.

Well, that’s it for now, I must get on. After a few days away there’s always loads to do. Thanks for stopping by. As always, any questions, suggestions or you just want to say hello, don’t hesitate to get in touch. See you very soon. Love Georgie and Pep xxx

P.S Excuse some of the photos, it was getting a tad dark when I took them.